A look at this timeless classic that should be in every man's wardrobe
By O.C.C.Jr.
There are many articles of clothing that help a man look great, but there is no other outfit with such elegance, charm, and integrity as that 126 year old classic known as the tuxedo. Since its inception, the tuxedo has been regarded by many a gentleman and lady as “the male uniform” of modern time. Its perfect infusion of understatement and sophistication makes the “Tux” the exemplar of fine men clothing.
A Concise History
There are so many stories compiling the origin of the Tuxedo that it is hard to know the truth. One thing everyone will agree is that it is named after Tuxedo Park, a residential colony some 40 miles northwest of New York City and already a stomping ground for the elite, thanks to Pierre Lorillard. Pierre a wealthy Tobacco Magnate, was a major part of the social circle and helped establish the social organization known as the Tuxedo Club.
Now, it must be noted that at the time it was customary for men of elite society to dinner in full tailcoat and white tie. Yet, in October of 1886 at the Tuxedo Club’s annual Autumn Ball, Pierre Lorillard commissioned a jacket without tails. Some say that it was modeled after a dinner jacket that was designed by the tailor to England’s King Edward VII. It was as some believe a jacket similar to the red jackets worn for formal fox hunts, while others believe it an offspring to England’s military. Whoever, if any are correct may never be known, but despite this radical idea, Pierre decided not to go through with his plans. However, his defiant son Griswold in a mocking attempt sported the jacket along with several of his friends to the Ball. Those in attendance viewed the spectacle as a fashion statement rather than a scandal and the legend was born.
The Tuxedo is now viewed as the quintessential symbol of special celebrations, an American Classic, and must own attire of any man with culture and good taste.
Should One Rent or Buy
Some men seem as though they were born wearing one while others loathe the idea, yet if you are a man of any sociability, then rest assure that inevitably you will have to put on a Tux. The big question is whether to buy or rent a tuxedo. In my honest opinion, I feel about the Tuxedo the way I feel about the blue blazer, tweed sport coat, and the basic black suit, every man should have one in his wardrobe. Of course, owning a Tuxedo can be expensive so investing in one is of personal choice. The litmus test is whether a man attends more than one formal event a year. If that’s the case, it’s a good idea to own rather than rent.
It has for many years, been a trend to rent a “Tux” especially for a wedding and that is unfortunate. A Tux is a bit of classical refinement deserving the same integrity as being a groom. Furthermore, some might believe that any man looks good in a “Tux.” I couldn’t agree less. While a Tuxedo certainly grants some elegance; if one chooses an ill-fitting Rental, one can’t expect to look their best on the big day. The problem is that a Tuxedo is supposed to have a tailored fit. Rental shops can’t do all the necessary alterations to insure a perfect fit because another groom will be using that same Tuxedo the following week. Now, I’m not saying that a man can’t look presentable in a rental “Tux,” but he won’t have that fine tailored look especially suited to his body. So, by all means, giving serious thought to investing in a proper fitting Tuxedo is job one. After all, the bride deserves the best her man can look and the groom will feel his best.
Of course, if resources are limited, there are two options. The first is simply to wait and save up for a proper “Tux,” and the other is to invest as much as one can afford on a rental stock and head straight for the nearest tailor. At least one can acquire an inexpensive Tuxedo and have it altered correctly.
The Anatomy of a Tuxedo
You have a Tuxedo and you’re ready to go right? Well, not quite. To keep in line with its integrity there are certain rules to keep in mind when wearing one properly. I will not go into semantics of jacket lapels and whether or not shawl, notch or peaked is correct or double-breasted versus single-breasted, because quite frankly, it all depends on a man’s preference and body type. However, the peaked lapel is the only one derived from the tailcoat and therefore the most classic form. What should be remembered when purchasing a Tuxedo is that it should be black. There are those who sing praise to a dark blue "Tux" but blue should be left to a business suit. Furthermore, any other color that is passed off today as a Tuxedo should be left on the rack. The lapel should be satin and any small embellishment such as trim on the pocket is acceptable as long as it's understated. Traditionally the "Tux" is vent-less but a center vent is fine. Buttons should be either satin or silk. The trousers always complement the jacket by a satin or braided strip covering the outer seams, and they must never be cuffed.
Shirts – There are two serious styles of shirt collars that are appropriate, wing collar, turn-down collar, but in my opinion only one rank as a classic semi-formal evening wear look and that is the turn-down collar. The turn-down collar is softer and the kind of shirts our grandfathers wore. Also, unlike the wing collar which runs the risk of losing its shape and drooping, the turn-down is natural and never loses its shape. The wing collar is best left to white-tie. Traditionally, the shirt possesses a bibbed front of 1/2” or ¾” pleats, or thanks to English shirt makers of the 30s, a combination of pleats and pique known as “Marcella.” Any exposed bib in full attire must be closed with studs (how many depends on height of wearer). Finally, French cuffs are added with cufflinks complementing the shirt studs. Barrel cuffs which are now in fashion must be avoided at all cost. Such shirts defy the integrity of purpose and are best used for everyday suits.
Ideally, shirts of 100% cotton are preferable to poly-blend shirts as they breathe and are comfortable. Believe me; nothing is worse than “sweating it out” when one should be relaxed and confident. Bow Tie- While it has become fashionable today for men to wear ties with a “Tux,” the classic approach to Tuxedo neckwear is still the simple black bow tie. The black bow-tie is the pièce de résistance and is what ties (no pun intended) the whole Tuxedo together. Styles vary with each man. The classic “butterfly, semi-butterfly, batwing, or pointed bows are a personal preference. What is most important is that the bow is tied and not pre-tied. The fabric of the bow-tie should always match the jacket lapel i.e., a satin lapel calls for a satin tie. Of course, the best quality ties are made of silk.
Waist Coat and Cummerbund- Here is a short anecdote concerning the wearing of a waist coat or cummerbund. A young lad was pondering on whether he really needed to wear a waist coat or a cummerbund since he was not fond of either option. Asking his mother why he needed to wear either of the articles, she turned to him matter-of-factually and said “My dear, either you are going to crap or get off the pot.” As crass as that may seem, mother was correct. If we make the choice to don a Tuxedo then we should put every effort into wearing it classically. Ideally, the more classic approach is to wear a waist coat. There are two choices, single or double-breasted and full or open back. Both are acceptable but should be of the same fabric as the jacket, contain no more than four buttons and be low enough to expose the bib of the shirt.
Some purists believe that the cummerbund was only meant for summer with the white dinner jacket but it is perfectly suitable for semi-formal attire. The cummerbund should be silk or even satin. Its pleats must always face up, a vestige of a time when dress trousers did not have pockets and gentlemen would carry their opera tickets tucked into them. The idea with both options is to cover braces and the waist band while also offering a clean look. A little about Trousers- Again, trousers are never cuffed. The Tuxedo trouser is marked by a satin or braided strip covering the outer seams (a throwback to the military look). The vertical stripe is also a means to add height, albeit artificially. The trousers may be pleated or plain depending on personal preference but always absent of a belt, as belts add unnecessary bulk. Tuxedos may come with inner waist buttons designed for braces or even the modern invent of adjustable side tabs. It is also ideal for trousers to break just over the middle of the shoe.
Braces (Suspenders) - Braces are used for one thing and one thing only, to hold the trousers properly. The color is inconsequential since they are not meant to be seen at all. Now that many trousers contain adjustable tabs many opt not to use braces at all, but to keep in line with tradition a tailor can add buttons. Braces are worn under the waist coat or cummerbund and since etiquette dictates non-removal of one’s jacket, having braces is purely for the wearer. The best material for braces is silk.
Shoes- The most traditional form of shoe is the patent leather opera pump. Normally this pump will contain a bow either pinched or flat in silk or grosgrain. The next shoe is the patent oxford. It should always be plain as not to compete with the Tuxedo. A patent cap-toe is also appropriate and closed lace is superior to open laced. There are still men who don’t feel comfortable with the extreme shine of patent leather. In that case, a plain cap-toe with a low natural sole polished to a high shine will work in a pinch. What should be avoided are the PVC shoes that are currently in vogue. Although they resemble patent leather, they are normally cheaply made and uncomfortable.
There are a few accessories such as hats, outer wear, gloves and cane that are associated with Tuxedos. If one chooses to wear a hat, the always appropriate and classical “Homburg” is an excellent choice. To wear a “Tux” in colder months requires a coat and any dark overcoat made of natural fibers and reaching at least to the knees is always the classic choice. Gloves and canes, although heighten the imagination of a by-gone era are not required and are best enjoyed on the silver screen.
Finally, the Tuxedo is derived from a long tradition and a fair amount of thought has been put into this “king of manly attire,” thus, it should be treated with the same reverence as any item of esteem. To wear one correctly doesn’t have to be difficult; yet, knowing how does separate the men from the boys. Yes, throwing on the old “penguin” suit is as classy as it gets but it is also an honor.
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